The iYellow Wine Club goes local
Photo by iYellow Wine Club
Fall has officially arrived. The weather seems to have changed appropriately on schedule. This is an exciting time - back to school, back to work...back to routine. More importantly, it's harvest!
Looking back to the lazy days of summer, my thoughts take me to Sunday August 12th as 44 eager iYellow Wine Club members borded a bus in downtown Toronto to escape to beautiful Niagara wine country. Having recently returned from a whirlwind trip throughout Burgundy and the south of France, I was due to head to another wine destination, even just for a day.
Barrel cellar at
Chateau des Charmes
Tasting room at
Southbrook
Some are still surprised when they learn that wine is even produced in Ontario. Not only is wine produced here, it's pretty darn delicious. This is a flourishing industry that is continuously growing every year and the wines are gaining more acclaim locally and abroad. Cool climate grape varieties such as riesling, chardonnay, and pinot noir being the most celebrated. You can't expect to be tasting a wine that's identical to a wine from another place in the world. Similar? Reminiscent? Sure. You are tasting Ontario and the "typicity" of its terroir. I recently read an article by John Szabo and he made great points about how we should be looking for wines that are typical to a region. He used the word "typicity" throughout and I put a lot of thought into that one word. Ontario is not California. Nor is it New Zealand or Germany. Ontario is...well, Ontario. What's that song that we always hear on tv: "Good things grow, in On-ta-rio".
The iYellow tour was co-hosted by Taylor Thompson, wine director for the Toronto Ritz Carlton. He offered a great dose of entertainment mixed with information. Learning can be fun! The day's activities, other than the funny commentary between Angela Aiello and Taylor, included a tour and tasting at 3 wineries, lunch, and some good ol' fashioned field trip shenanigans.
Sheltered from the rain
Vines at Vineland
These tours are a terrific way to be introduced (or re-acquainted) to the region. Not only are you driven around all day, lunch is provided and you are essentially treated to VIP tastings at each winery. It takes the pressure off trying to plan your own excursion, especially if you've never been to the area. I love hopping on a bus and letting the day unfold. It kind of reminds me of school field trips, just more fun and with alcohol (oops, I didn't say that).
The "iYellow Loves Local" fall tour schedule:
Sheep at Southbrook
Hey Stu - yeah I'm talkin' to you!
Saturday September 29th Saturday October 13th Saturday October 20th
Our first stop was at Vineland Estates. The tasting, led by Taylor himself, was held inside the production area. A delicious boxed lunch was provided afterwards after our salivary glads were sufficiently lubricated. This was no ordinary boxed lunch - it was deliciously on the gourmet side and we were allowed to eat it anywhere on the grounds. We grabbed some leftover bottles from the tasting and headed outside to enjoy our meal next to the vines. If you're ever at Vineland, do plan to eat at the restaurant. If the boxed lunches were any indication of the quality of the restaurant, you won't be disappointed. It has a great reputation among both visitors and locals. The most talked about wine of the tasting was the 2009 St. Urban Riesling. The 2011 Elevation St. Urban Riesling is now available in stores. www.vineland.com
Michelle Bosc and the
iYellow group in the
barrel cellar
Chateau des Charmes
Pinot Noir 2010
Our next destination was Chateau des Charmes where Michelle Bosc herself was the guide. After a sparkling wine reception, we were taken out into the vineyards and into the production facility. Even though the rain had decided to make an appearance, it didn't last long and by late afternoon, the sun was back out shining. My favourites of the tasting were the 2010 Pinot Noir and the 2010 Equuleus. The Equuleus is a wine of structure. Only created in the best of years, it is a Bordelaise blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot. The Pinot Noir highlighted the wonderful qualities that can arise from cooler-climate vineyards. www.chateaudescharmes.com
A short clip with Michelle Bosc, whose family owns and operates Chateau des Charmes.
In this video she explains why Ontario can successfully grow grape for wine production.
Angela Aiello discussing
with owner of Southbrook,
Bill Redelmeir
The final stop was Southbrook Vineyards.
2011 Triomphe
Cabernet Franc
Rose
Small in size, it's Canada's largest organic and biodynamic winery. It doesn't use synthetic pesticides, chemical fertilizer, or genetic modification. Think of biodynamics as extreme organic practices that are on the mystical side. The winery itself is an interesting piece of architecture. You can't miss it as you drive along the main road into the town of Niagara-on-the-Lake. Bill Redelmeir, owner of Southbrook, took us out into the vineyards to talk about biodynamics and how this viticulture practice translates into the wines. One such example is the use of sheep on the property. Their waste, as they munch away on the vine foliage, is used as fertilizer. There must be something to this alternative form of agriculture because the wines were really enjoyable. www.southbrook.com
The LCBO has recently launched a campaign to promote local wines with the slogan "People are Talking". A highly visual website, with a large focus on social media, was launched a few weeks ago. www.lcbogolocal.com
Chateau des Charmes
Equuleus 2009
Join the conversation and share some of your favourite Ontario wines on Twitter with the hashtags #lcbogolocal and #vqa.
This release of Vintages magazine features the wines of Ontario. If you haven't picked up a copy of the free bi-weekly publication, you can pick one up at your local LCBO or view it online: www.vintages.com
Tomorrow morning I'm putting my stamp on harvest 2012. I'm headed back out to FlatRock Cellars to help out with the sorting of riesling that are to be harvested.
On the evening of May 15th, I was very honoured to be invited to another delicious iYellow Wine Club event: A Zeni Winemaker Dinner featuring winemaker Fausto Zeni. The evening of delightful sensory pleasures was held at Nota Bene, one of my favourites in the city.
Fausto Zeni (left)
I took this opportunity to finally begin my exploration of Italy. I somehow manage to avoid Italy (if you've noticed) on this blog. Not that I don't like it. Quite the opposite. I love everything Italian - the fashion, the food, the language, the people and yes, the wine. However, I do find Italy overwhelming when it comes to the study of its wines. It seems that every inch of the country produces wine with indigenous grape varieties. Coupled with a rich history - there's just a lot to know. My education starts now. Luckily for me, as I started this post, I had the April 28th LCBO Vintages publication nearby and it so happened to feature the wines of the Veneto region. My research into the region and its wines began there.
Costalago IGT
Rosso Veronese 2010
www.lake-garda-revealed.com
Zeni winery is located in northestern Italy. Sitting on hills, it overlooks the village of Bardolino and Italy's largest lake, Lake Garda. The winery is run by the Zeni family who have been making Veronese Wines for five generations.
We've all heard the words Valpolicella, Ripasso, Soave, Prosecco and Amarone. These words are associated with the Veneto region of Italy. The Veneto is also the centre of a process called "appassimento" which translates to "grape drying".
The wines of Zeni fall into a number of categories or selections (selezione). These categories group the wines and highlight stylistic features. They are labeled i Classici, Vigne Alte, Marogne, Amaroni, Recioti and Gli Speciali. www.zeni.it/vini.php
Zeni family
Since 1991, the winery has also been home to a wine museum. It covers everything from ancient winemaking to current day viticultural and vinification practices. I took a look at the museum on the website. It really does look interesting. All those old tools remind me of the movie "The Princess Bride". You know the scene I'm talking about. Spending quite a bit of time on the website, I've developed a desire to make a trip to the region. It's for educational purposes...really! Time to purchase an Italian phrasebook.
My "passport" to the
wines of Zeni
Let's review some terminology:
IGT: Indicazione Geografica Tipica. This is the Italian classificationsystem for those wines that don't meet the strict regulations of the DOC (or DOCG which is one more level up). IGT rules allow for more experimentation or blending of international grape varieties. Wines with this classification are often very good.
DOC: Denominazione di Origine Controllata. This is the Italian classificationsystem for quality wines coming from a region. The highest level (one level up) is DOCG. Wines produced under this classification must follow very specific rules and regulations (for example, what grape varieties may be used). It's similar to the AOC system in France or our own VQA system.
Classico: In Italy this means the original zone of production within a DOC. It's the "classic" or historic area of that DOC. Classico vineyards are considered to be of superior quality.
Fausto Zeni (left)
photo by J. Aiello
Valpolicella: A region in the Veneto. This is in Northeast Italy. The grape varieties used in the blends are often Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara.
Ripasso: The Italian word for "re-passed". It is a styleof Valpolicella.Valpolicella wine is re-fermented on unpressed grape skins leftover from the production of Amarone. The fruitiness of Valpolicella wine is combined with the earthy characteristics of Amarone. It adds flavour, body and alcohol to the wine. Think of it as "Amarone on a budget".
Amarone: A red wine made in the Valpolicella "Classico" region. It is made with dried (passito) grapes. The grapes shrivel, becoming raison-like. This technique creates wines that are powerful and concentrated with alcohol levels reaching above 15%. The proper name is Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. Hence, Amarone for short. The Corvina grape is the dominant variety in the blend.
Rosso: Italian word for red.
Fausto Zeni and
@theyummygrape
Ciao! er...thumbs up!
photo by J.Aiello
What an evening. Delicious food coupled with enjoyable wine. Whenever Italians are involved, the fun is usually just moments away! The festivities were brought to us by the letters IYC - the iYellow Wine Club and as usual, I spent the night with old friends and as expected, made new ones. The iYellow Wine Club is a social club based in Toronto. Free to join, it's a wonderful way to socialize and learn about wine.
Here is a great review of the evening by fellow blogger @towineman: towineman.com
Now we go to L'abbinamento ("the match"). This Italian word is represents the pairing of food and wine. I've been practicing saying it with some Italian flair.
This wine was in Vintages for about $15! A good wine for the money. Too bad it's sold out. Well, it's actually good that it's sold out. Good for them, bad for me. This wine is mostly made of the grape Corvina with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blended.
Full-bodied with hints of black cherry and well-ripened fruit. Traditional skin fermentation followed by 10-15 days maceration. After fermentation the unpressed Amarone skins are added to Valpolicella wine, according to the traditional Valpolicella 'ripasso' technique. (from Zeni tasting notes)
Scored 19 points with Decanter.
"Aromas of tobacco, woodsmoke and mocha. A very elegant palate with red fruit, silky tannins and fine acidity. - Decanter
Raising of the grapes for 4 months followed by traditional skin fermentation. Notes of vanilla and hits of cocoa and spices. (from Zeni product notes)
Course 5
Parmigiano Reggiano
Dried Muscat Grapes Wine: Amarone della Valpolicella DOC Classico Nino Zeni 2000
A real treat for us. Named as a tribute to the father of the current Zeni children who run the family business. It was one of my favourites of the evening.
5 wines of the evening
photo by J.Aiello
I'd like to thank Angela Aiello of iYellow Wine Club for inviting me to this enjoyable yet very informative evening! I think my "fear" of some of the complexities of Italian wines has been greatly diminished. By writing this blog post, I now feel a more confident discussing the wines of Vento. Bring on the dinner parties. Ciao!
Salute!
photo by J. Aiello
For more information about iYellow Wine Club, Toronto's hippest social wine scene: www.iyellowwineclub.com
L.C. Prestance
Maison Vendome
All photos by Trish Beesley
To kick off the 2011 Holiday Season, I was invited to small, intimate tasting of three Champagnes at Toca restaurant, located in the Ritz Carlton Hotel. My friend John Carlo Meli who runs Natural Vines wine agency, was showcasing a new Champagne contender to rival the big names of Dom and Cristal. Not that you ever need a purpose to open a bottle of Champagne since it's fine anytime! The purpose of this tasting was to taste the three Champagnes blindly with Master Sommelier John Szabo. He would ultimately decide how this newbie would place amongst the three contenders. As a blogger, I was fortunate to have also been invited along with the beautiful Angela Aiello from iYellow Wine Club. I'm not used to tasting bubbly at 11:30 am but I could get used to it.
I've never done a blind tasting of Champagne before so this was going to be fun. When they were all poured, I took a sniff of each one for an initial overview. When you're dealing with these types of wines, they're all good. I'd be happy to have any one of these in my glass at any given time. This tasting was to discover the subtle differences between each of these Champagnes. When you start getting up in this price category of Champagne, it really is those subtle differences that make them stand apart.
JC of Natural Vines
Well, I guessed them all correctly! My one clue was the Cristal since I've had that before. Those small, fine and very persistant bubbles is what gave me the tip. Blindly, my favourite was the Dom Perignon. It's funny because us girls preferred the Dom while the men preferred the Vendome! We had Taylor Thompson, wine director at the Ritz try them blindly afterwards and he was aboard the Prestance train as well. I mean, all of these wines were excellent! It just boils down to personal taste of those subtleties. The L.C. Prestance, made with 100% Chardonnay grapes, had a lot of baked apple and brioche notes with excellent weight where the Dom was just slightly more reserved. It was a tough one.
Myself, JC and John Szabo
I was very excited to meet John Szabo and watch him in action. With his laptop on the table, he made his way through each of the wines, sniffing, sipping, spitting and typing. I was watching him with such curiosity and wondering what was going through his mind.
L.C. Prestance Champagne
John Carlo and I sat there looking at eachother wondering if we were allowed to quietly chat or were we to sit there in silence while John constructed his tasting notes. I started to make my way through the flight in front of me. I don't know how John Szabo does this. There's a big difference between tasting and drinking. I know some of you may laugh but wine tasting is really hard work! Especially when you have to give each sample 100% focus while maintaining objective. He's constantly tasting hundreds of wines a month. He's one of the main critics on Wine Align and his reviews are often featured also in the bi-weekly Vintages publication put out by the LCBO with newly released products.
Love the packaging!
Also available in black!
"Maison Vendome, House of Luxury and Creation, has created L.C. Prestance, the first Haute Couture Champagnes." www.maisonvendome.com
Maison Vendome is the official Champagne of the Cannes Film Festival. I think this was as close as I was going to get to brush elbows with the beautiful people of Cannes. The packaging of this Champagne is unlike anything I've seen before. There's a beautiful thick soft cover encasing the bottle that's a piece of art in itself. The first 1000 bottles of each collection have a glittering bow-tie attached with more than 150 diamond-cut crystals that can be worn.
Prestance (n.f): French word meaning "Presence".
Person or object looking elegant, noble and imposing.
If Maison Vendome ever wants me to spin at
the Cannes Film Festival, I'm available. :)
Sure I'll take another!
John Szabo at work
To read John Szabo's article on this event, you'll find it on the Wine Align website. It's a great read that also includes detailed tasting notes on each wine sampled. Maison Vendome's L.C. Prestance was the winner of the day. John Szabo scored it 96. Wow! Fantastic.
All photographs used in this post are by Trish Beesley of Trish Beeley Photography www.tbphotographystudio.com
Thanks to John Carlo (JC) Meli of Natural Vines for putting this great tasting together (and for bringing our lovely contestants Dom, Cristal and Prestance). Also a big thanks to Taylor Thompson of Toca for letting us use the venue.
I thought this article was fitting to end 2011...with some fizz! Wishing you all a wonderful New Year's celebration and looking forward to wonderful wines in 2012. Remember, celebrate well but celebrate responsibly.