iYellow Wine Club introduces the wines of Zeni

On the evening of May 15th, I was very honoured to be invited to another delicious iYellow Wine Club event: A Zeni Winemaker Dinner featuring winemaker Fausto Zeni. The evening of delightful sensory pleasures was held at Nota Bene, one of my favourites in the city.

Fausto Zeni (left)

I took this opportunity to finally begin my exploration of Italy. I somehow manage to avoid Italy (if you've noticed) on this blog. Not that I don't like it. Quite the opposite. I love everything Italian - the fashion, the food, the language, the people and yes, the wine. However, I do find Italy overwhelming when it comes to the study of its wines. It seems that every inch of the country produces wine with indigenous grape varieties. Coupled with a rich history - there's just a lot to know.  My education starts now. Luckily for me, as I started this post, I had the April 28th LCBO Vintages publication nearby and it so happened to feature the wines of the Veneto region. My research into the region and its wines began there.

Costalago IGT
Rosso Veronese 2010

www.lake-garda-revealed.com

Zeni winery is located in northestern  Italy. Sitting on hills, it overlooks the village of Bardolino and Italy's largest lake, Lake Garda.  The winery is run by the Zeni family who have been making Veronese Wines for five generations.




Zeni is a wine producer that has been in business since Bartolomeo Zeni began trading wine in the early 1800s in the Bardolino region of Lake Garda in Italy. Today, the Zeni family is still in charge of wine production, with artful attention to details and a sense of tradition using modern equipment and techniques. The company produces a broad range of styles from classical Bardolino, Soave, Valpolicella, Bianco di Custoza, Lugana and Amarone to IGTs, rosé, sparkling and dessert wines. - www.snooth.com

At Nota Bene restaurant
notabenerestaurant.com

We've all heard the words Valpolicella, Ripasso, Soave, Prosecco and Amarone. These words are associated with the Veneto region of Italy. The Veneto is also the centre of a process called "appassimento" which translates to "grape drying".

The wines of Zeni fall into a number of categories or selections (selezione).  These categories group the wines and highlight stylistic features. They are labeled i Classici, Vigne Alte, Marogne, Amaroni, Recioti and Gli Speciali. www.zeni.it/vini.php

Zeni family

Since 1991, the winery has also been home to a wine museum. It covers everything from ancient winemaking to current day viticultural and vinification practices. I took a look at the museum on the website. It really does look interesting. All those old tools remind me of the movie  "The Princess Bride". You know the scene I'm talking about. Spending quite a bit of time on the website, I've developed a desire to make a trip to the region. It's for educational purposes...really! Time to purchase an Italian phrasebook.

My "passport" to the
wines of Zeni

Let's review some terminology:

IGT: Indicazione Geografica Tipica. This is the Italian classification system for those wines that don't meet the strict regulations of the DOC (or DOCG which is one more level up). IGT rules allow for more experimentation or blending of international grape varieties. Wines with this classification are often very good.

DOC: Denominazione di Origine Controllata. This is the Italian classification system for quality wines coming from a region. The highest level (one level up) is DOCG. Wines produced under this classification must follow very specific rules and regulations (for example, what grape varieties may be used). It's similar to the AOC system in France or our own VQA system.

Classico: In Italy this means the original zone of production within a DOC. It's the "classic" or historic area of that DOC. Classico vineyards are considered to be of superior quality.

Fausto Zeni (left)
photo by J. Aiello

Valpolicella: A region in the Veneto. This is in Northeast Italy. The grape varieties used in the blends are often Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara.

Ripasso: The Italian word for "re-passed". It is a style of Valpolicella. Valpolicella wine is re-fermented on unpressed grape skins leftover from the production of Amarone. The fruitiness of Valpolicella wine is combined with the earthy characteristics of Amarone. It adds flavour, body and alcohol to the wine. Think of it as "Amarone on a budget".

Amarone: A red wine made in the Valpolicella "Classico" region. It is made with dried (passito) grapes. The grapes shrivel, becoming raison-like. This technique creates wines that are powerful and concentrated with alcohol levels reaching above 15%. The proper name is Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. Hence, Amarone for short. The Corvina grape is the dominant variety in the blend.

Rosso: Italian word for red.

Fausto Zeni and
@theyummygrape
Ciao! er...thumbs up!
photo by J.Aiello

What an evening. Delicious food coupled with enjoyable wine. Whenever Italians are involved, the fun is usually just moments away! The festivities were brought to us by the letters IYC - the iYellow Wine Club and as usual, I spent the night with old friends and as expected, made new ones.  The iYellow Wine Club is a social club based in Toronto. Free to join, it's a wonderful way to socialize and learn about wine.

Here is a great review of the evening by fellow blogger @towineman: towineman.com

Now we go to L'abbinamento ("the match"). This Italian word is represents the pairing of food and wine. I've been practicing saying it with some Italian flair.

course 1

Course 1

Warm Zucchini Salad

Artisanal Goat’s Cheese, Coppa
Wine Pairing: Costalago IGT Rosso Veronese 2010

This wine was in Vintages for about $15! A good wine for the money. Too bad it's sold out. Well, it's actually good that it's sold out. Good for them, bad for me. This wine is mostly made of the grape Corvina with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blended.

course 2 (drool!)

Course 2

Dry-Aged Beef Carpaccio

Wine: Valpolicella Ripasso DOC Superior Marogne 2009

Full-bodied with hints of black cherry and well-ripened fruit. Traditional skin fermentation followed by 10-15 days maceration. After fermentation the unpressed Amarone skins are added to Valpolicella wine, according to the traditional Valpolicella 'ripasso' technique. (from Zeni tasting notes)

course 3 

Course 3

Sorbir di Agnoli

Ripieno di Cotechino

Wine: Amarone della Valpolicella DOC Classico Vigne Alte 2007

Scored 19 points with Decanter.
"Aromas of tobacco, woodsmoke and mocha. A very elegant palate with red fruit, silky tannins and fine acidity. - Decanter

course 4 (show me the marrow!)

Course 4

Roasted Lamb Loin

Spring Peas, Rosemary-Garlic Jus

Wine: Amarone della Valpolicella 
DOC Classico Barriques 2007

Raising of the grapes for 4 months followed by traditional skin fermentation. Notes of vanilla and hits of cocoa and spices. (from Zeni product notes)

Course 5

Parmigiano Reggiano

Dried Muscat Grapes
Wine: Amarone della Valpolicella 
DOC Classico Nino Zeni 2000

A real treat for us. Named as a tribute to the father of the current Zeni children who run the family business.  It was one of my favourites of the evening.

5 wines of the evening
photo by J.Aiello

I'd like to thank Angela Aiello of iYellow Wine Club for inviting me to this enjoyable yet very informative evening! I think my "fear" of some of the complexities of Italian wines has been greatly diminished. By writing this blog post, I now feel a more confident discussing the wines of Vento. Bring on the dinner parties. Ciao!

Salute!
photo by J. Aiello

For more information about iYellow Wine Club, Toronto's hippest social wine scene: www.iyellowwineclub.com

Follow iYellow Wine Club on Twitter: @iyellowwineclub

To learn more about the Zeni family of wines: www.zeni.it

Follow Zeni on Twitter: @Zeni_Bardolino

An interview with Federica Zeni of Zeni Winery

Triplusvin YouTube Channel

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A YouTube video showing Bardolino
and Lake Garda

California Wine Fair 2012

Every year, I eagerly anticipate the California Wine Fair. Located at the Royal York Hotel in downtown Toronto, the walk-around tasting is a great way to spend a few hours discovering this diverse state. It really has it all - sun, surf, tech, stars and most important - wine.

Wines of Grgich Hills
2008 Cabernet Sauvignon

This year I had the chance to attend the afternoon event for trade and media. I was excited because I would be sharing the same spit buckets as some of the city's most respected sommeliers, writers, agents and buyers. You know, spitting wine is actually an acquired skill - one that I have yet to master as I always somehow manage to get whatever's in the bucket on myself. Bleh.

Alessandro from Profile Wine Group
Pouring J. Lohr wines

The public tasting is always held in the evening. There is a modest entrance fee. I say modest because for the quantity and quality of the wines, it's well worth it. This event gives you the opportunity to taste some wonderful examples of what California has to offer. This year, there were over 100 wineries participating. I'm sure you've seen some of the names before in your local LCBO store:

Profile Wine Group pouring
Signorello wines

J. Lohr Winery
Beringer Vineyards
Roert Mondavi Winery
Francis Ford Coppola Winery
Sterling Vineyards
Grgich Hills Estate
Heitz Wine Cellar

... and luckily for us, the list goes on!

Tara Colaneri of Colaneri Winery
and Ontario Winemaker of the year -
Andrzej Lipinski

An event like this can be quite over-whelming as there are just too many wines to physically try.  You can't do it all. Well, you could try but probably wouldn't get very far before being head first in one of those spit buckets. Trust me, I learned the hard way one year.  That's all I'll say about that. What I recommend is to do some research on the participating wineries. The list is always posted well before the event. It helps to have a game-plan. Divide and conquer.

Miner Family Winery
2008 Wild Yeast Chardonnay

On the hunt for varieties other than Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, it didn't take long to stumble (maybe not the best term to use for a wine-related post) upon the other darlings of California such as Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Zinfandel. Of course, what I always start with is some sparkling wine. This year, it was the bubbly of Gloria Ferrer. Sparkling wine is a great way to prepare the palate for a taste-a-thon.

Flowers Pinot Noir is
always a hit

Having spent quite a bit of time there for work, I've developed quite the affinity for California. I had the opportunity to visit many wineries in Santa Barbara County, Sonoma County and Napa Valley. Hopefully on my next trip, I'll explore Paso Robles - home of some fine Zinfandel and various Rhone varietals.

Zaca Mesa 2009 Viognier was
 a great new discovery

California is a state with approximately 1300 km of coastline. The state's topography and soil variances leads to diverse growing conditions which of course come out in the wines. The cool air from the Pacific ocean acts like a giant air conditioner for vineyards - especially those closer to the coast. Plenty of sunshine to properly ripen the grapes, cool fogs and breezes from the ocean to cool them down - this is why the state can have such a flourishing wine industry.

www.discovercaliforniawines.com

Whenever I visit a particular California wine region, I always find the people to be warm and welcoming. They're excited to share not only the wine, but the passion and knowledge that goes with it.  It really is quite infectious. Sure, some regions can be slightly more touristy than others but I can guarantee that you'll always have an enjoyable visit.

Dierberg Family of Wines

California is usually at the forefront of research and innovation. Did you know that the state actually grows 100 different grape varieties? Experimentation with winemaking techniques, technology along with flexibility in creating unconventional blends is like none other in the world.

The wines of Peju

The growers and winemakers are also leading the way for sustainable winegrowing practices. That could be a whole other article: Sustainable, Biodynamic and Organic Farming. For brevity's sake, let's just say that they're trying to create products that have the least amount of environmental impact right from practices in the vineyard itself to those inside the winery. Sustainability - from grape to bottle. Just remember, sustainable does not equal organic.

Packed with eager tasters

For more information on sustainable winegrowing in California:

www.discovercaliforniawines.com/sustainable-winegrowing

If you really want to have a great, detailed read about California, check out this webpage by Jancis Robinson:

www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/a200808082.html

I urge you to check out the California Wine Fair when it's back in town next year. In one evening, you can discover what the Golden State has to offer. You can, in the meantime, begin your research by picking up some California wine on your next visit to the LCBO. Coincidentally, one of themes for the current Vintages release is  "California Legends".

www.calwine.ca
www.discovercaliforniawines.com
www.facebook.com/CaliforniaWines

Learn more about the wines of California

This is a fun show with world-renown wine expert Oz Clarke

and Top Gear's James Hammond

I'm hooked!

Oz & James's Big Wine Adventure 

Los Carneros

So what's Vinho Verde?

When I heard about the Vinho Verde tasting in Toronto, it peaked my curiosity. I've heard about this region and the topic was touched upon in some of my wine classes but I didn't know anything about it really. This tasting would provide an excellent way to travel the region - one wine at a time. Normally when one thinks of Portugal, port wine comes to mind. Portugal also produces still, sparkling and sweet wines. It's up to us consumers to get out there and explore what the country has to offer.

Lush and green

Vinho Verde is located in the hilly northwest portion of Portugal. Known for cool, wet weather and lush green vegetation, Vinho Verde translates to "green wine" although it really means "young wine". Having the largest area under vine in the country, the wines coming from this region are characterized as being fresh, crisp and aromatic with lots of mineral notes. Perfect for light-style foods and activities such as white fish, poultry, salad, sushi and my favourite, summer patio sipping!

www.sfgate.com

Some say the designation "Verde" (green) owes its origin to the wine's acidity and freshness, resembling unripe (green) fruit. Others affirm that "Verde" comes from the region's vegetation, which imparts a green tone to the soil, even in winter. - winesofportugal.info

A friendly face from Vinho Verde
Antonio Oliveira Monteiro
of Quinta Das Arcas

From a viticultural point of view, cool wet weather will make ripening of grapes more difficult, leading to fruit with much higher acidity.  Suffering from a poor reputation over the years, the region is going through a rebirth. Early exported wines were extremely tart, acidic and fizzy (carbon dioxide left over from fermentation). This led to the the region's unpopularity. With the modernization of both viticultural and vinification practices in the region, wine quality has greatly improved and continues to evolve.  I really enjoyed many of the wines that I had the opportunity to try. You could say that I was pleasantly surprised. Only some of the whites had a bit of that prickle (carbon dioxide) which is now deliberately added during bottling, to give homage to the history of the style. Other whites, especially those made with the Alvarinho grape (same grape as the Spanish Albarino) displayed an elegant, fuller body, some with oak influence. One thing is sure, Vinho Verde is focusing on producing quality-driven wine while showcases its indigenous grape varieties. Even though the region is predominately known for its whites there is also plenty of red being produced as well. We just don't see much of it here.

Delicious wines from
Quinta de Carapecos

Vinho Verde is still distinguished by its high acidity. Flavour depends on the grape varieties used - floral Loureiro, steely Trajadura, mineral Arinto (known here as Pedernã), creamy and mineral Avesso, and the fine, mineral, subtly fragrant Alvarinho. Azal Branco is hard to ripen and declining in popularity, and in any case tends to get blended with more aromatic grapes. Most white Vinho Verde can be relied upon to be light, crisp and aromatic, often with a light prickle of fizz, sometimes with a touch of sweetness. - winesofportugal.info

Wines of Vinho Verde
 Conde Villar line by
Quinta das Arcas

At the event I had the opportunity to speak with Carla Cunha, a spokesperson for Vinho Verde. I asked her to describe in her own words, the essence of the region and its wines.

www.quintadasarcas.com

"Vinho Verde means a young wine. It's a young style of wine in one way. The other, it comes from a very very green region and that initially gave the name to the wine region and to the wine. The climate has Atlantic influence. The wine is very young and fresh." 

For more information about this exciting region: www.vinhoverde.pt
Desfrute dos vinhos de Vinho Verde!

Vinho Verde 101 

Vinho Verdo Wines YouTube Channel