The iYellow Wine Club goes local
Photo by iYellow Wine Club
Fall has officially arrived. The weather seems to have changed appropriately on schedule. This is an exciting time - back to school, back to work...back to routine. More importantly, it's harvest!
Looking back to the lazy days of summer, my thoughts take me to Sunday August 12th as 44 eager iYellow Wine Club members borded a bus in downtown Toronto to escape to beautiful Niagara wine country. Having recently returned from a whirlwind trip throughout Burgundy and the south of France, I was due to head to another wine destination, even just for a day.
Barrel cellar at
Chateau des Charmes
Tasting room at
Southbrook
Some are still surprised when they learn that wine is even produced in Ontario. Not only is wine produced here, it's pretty darn delicious. This is a flourishing industry that is continuously growing every year and the wines are gaining more acclaim locally and abroad. Cool climate grape varieties such as riesling, chardonnay, and pinot noir being the most celebrated. You can't expect to be tasting a wine that's identical to a wine from another place in the world. Similar? Reminiscent? Sure. You are tasting Ontario and the "typicity" of its terroir. I recently read an article by John Szabo and he made great points about how we should be looking for wines that are typical to a region. He used the word "typicity" throughout and I put a lot of thought into that one word. Ontario is not California. Nor is it New Zealand or Germany. Ontario is...well, Ontario. What's that song that we always hear on tv: "Good things grow, in On-ta-rio".
The iYellow tour was co-hosted by Taylor Thompson, wine director for the Toronto Ritz Carlton. He offered a great dose of entertainment mixed with information. Learning can be fun! The day's activities, other than the funny commentary between Angela Aiello and Taylor, included a tour and tasting at 3 wineries, lunch, and some good ol' fashioned field trip shenanigans.
Sheltered from the rain
Vines at Vineland
These tours are a terrific way to be introduced (or re-acquainted) to the region. Not only are you driven around all day, lunch is provided and you are essentially treated to VIP tastings at each winery. It takes the pressure off trying to plan your own excursion, especially if you've never been to the area. I love hopping on a bus and letting the day unfold. It kind of reminds me of school field trips, just more fun and with alcohol (oops, I didn't say that).
The "iYellow Loves Local" fall tour schedule:
Sheep at Southbrook
Hey Stu - yeah I'm talkin' to you!
Saturday September 29th Saturday October 13th Saturday October 20th
Our first stop was at Vineland Estates. The tasting, led by Taylor himself, was held inside the production area. A delicious boxed lunch was provided afterwards after our salivary glads were sufficiently lubricated. This was no ordinary boxed lunch - it was deliciously on the gourmet side and we were allowed to eat it anywhere on the grounds. We grabbed some leftover bottles from the tasting and headed outside to enjoy our meal next to the vines. If you're ever at Vineland, do plan to eat at the restaurant. If the boxed lunches were any indication of the quality of the restaurant, you won't be disappointed. It has a great reputation among both visitors and locals. The most talked about wine of the tasting was the 2009 St. Urban Riesling. The 2011 Elevation St. Urban Riesling is now available in stores. www.vineland.com
Michelle Bosc and the
iYellow group in the
barrel cellar
Chateau des Charmes
Pinot Noir 2010
Our next destination was Chateau des Charmes where Michelle Bosc herself was the guide. After a sparkling wine reception, we were taken out into the vineyards and into the production facility. Even though the rain had decided to make an appearance, it didn't last long and by late afternoon, the sun was back out shining. My favourites of the tasting were the 2010 Pinot Noir and the 2010 Equuleus. The Equuleus is a wine of structure. Only created in the best of years, it is a Bordelaise blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot. The Pinot Noir highlighted the wonderful qualities that can arise from cooler-climate vineyards. www.chateaudescharmes.com
A short clip with Michelle Bosc, whose family owns and operates Chateau des Charmes.
In this video she explains why Ontario can successfully grow grape for wine production.
Angela Aiello discussing
with owner of Southbrook,
Bill Redelmeir
The final stop was Southbrook Vineyards.
2011 Triomphe
Cabernet Franc
Rose
Small in size, it's Canada's largest organic and biodynamic winery. It doesn't use synthetic pesticides, chemical fertilizer, or genetic modification. Think of biodynamics as extreme organic practices that are on the mystical side. The winery itself is an interesting piece of architecture. You can't miss it as you drive along the main road into the town of Niagara-on-the-Lake. Bill Redelmeir, owner of Southbrook, took us out into the vineyards to talk about biodynamics and how this viticulture practice translates into the wines. One such example is the use of sheep on the property. Their waste, as they munch away on the vine foliage, is used as fertilizer. There must be something to this alternative form of agriculture because the wines were really enjoyable. www.southbrook.com
The LCBO has recently launched a campaign to promote local wines with the slogan "People are Talking". A highly visual website, with a large focus on social media, was launched a few weeks ago. www.lcbogolocal.com
Chateau des Charmes
Equuleus 2009
Join the conversation and share some of your favourite Ontario wines on Twitter with the hashtags #lcbogolocal and #vqa.
This release of Vintages magazine features the wines of Ontario. If you haven't picked up a copy of the free bi-weekly publication, you can pick one up at your local LCBO or view it online: www.vintages.com
Tomorrow morning I'm putting my stamp on harvest 2012. I'm headed back out to FlatRock Cellars to help out with the sorting of riesling that are to be harvested.
This past Saturday afternoon I eagerly went to the Summerhill LCBO for a special sampling event. Donald Ziraldo, a pioneer of Canadian icewine, was pouring his new creation labeled "Equifera".
I was excited to meet the famous Donald Ziraldo. He co-founded Inniskillin Winery in 1974 and has been so instrumental in putting Canada on the wine map. He was just as charismatic and friendly as people have described. I had fun just hanging out at the tasting table sampling, listening to him talk about icewine to all the eager tasters. Of course, the refills were also a bonus.
Equifera Estate Winery is located on the Niagara Escarpment. It's a 50 acre Estate which used to be the home of champion racehorses in the 50s and 60s. The name Equifera means "Wild Horse" and is derived from the Latin "Equus Ferus". This winery in unique because it only makes icewine. The grapes used to make icewine are hand picked when temperatures reach well below zero and cause the grapes to freeze. The Vidal, Riesling and Cabernet Franc wines of Equifera are the result of "extreme winemaking".
Aromas of lush, tropical fruit including lychee, mango and dried apricots. Secondary layers of grapefruit and pineapple notes. The rich viscosity of this Vidal leads to a long, rich finish in the mouth. - www.equiferaicewine.com
Sounds good doesn't it!
The secret to icewine, the real secret is the acidity from our cool climate region that balances off the sugar in your mouth...that's the secret to great icewine, that balance, that delicate balance between sugar and acid. - Donald Ziraldo
Below is a video by Donald taking you through wine country, describing not only his Equifera but icewine in general and what goes into making it. I picked up a personally signed bottle of the 2008 Vidal as well as an autographed copy of "Icewine: Extreme Winemaking" written by Ziraldo himself and Karl Kaiser. I felt like such a wine groupie with all my autographed items! I'm a fan, what can I say. Thanks Donald! I love what's written on the front page of the book: "Luxury Begins At... -10 ºC".
For more information on Equifera and Donald Ziraldo:
Let's meet the next grape grower who grows the wine we love! This is Trevor Falk. He is a grower from Niagara-on-the lake.
Trevor Falk, Ontario grape grower
“You might say that wine runs in my blood. In the 1930’s, my grandfather was one of the first farmers to recognize the Niagara region’s grape-growing potential and in the 1970’s, my parents became pioneers in the industry. Even as a boy, I looked forward to the day I’d take over the family operation, and I’ve already got plans for the 4th generation of Falks”. - Trevor Falk, Ontario grape grower
4th generation in the making!
How cute is this little guy!
In the video Trevor gives us a small glimpse of a typical day during harvest. I know that sometimes people romanticize harvest and what fun it must be to gather the fruits of the vine's labour. I know I do! I always forget that harvest is downright dirty hard work along with long hours. Trevor mentions how he used to help with hand harvesting when he was younger. With the advance in technology of mechanical harvesters, what used to take days to complete, can now be finished in hours.
What's the difference between hand and mechanized harvesting?
Hand
Picking by hand is expensive and to harvest an entire vineyard can take days. However, having that human contact, the grapes can be more scrutinized. Rotten or unripe clusters can be excluded and "MOG" can be further reduced. MOG stands for material other than grapes such as leaves, twigs...bugs...animals...well, you get the point. Picking by hand is much gentler on the fruit so there is less of a chance that the grapes will get damaged. If the grapes break open, they're exposed to air and yeast. This is a big problem because it causes oxidation and premature fermentation.
Machine
Mechanical harvesters move above vines and gently vibrate them so that the grapes are separated from their stems. This process must be a gentle one because you don't want to ruin the vines in the process. You also don't want to have “MOG” mixed in with the picked grapes. That'll just create more sorting work once the bins reach the winery.A machine can generally pick about 5 tons of grapes per hour. That's a lot. That's a lot more than hand pickers! Speed is the greatest asset of a machine harvester. It can gather the fruit and have it brought to the winery right away. This brings down the cost for producing the finished wine but it can also save a harvest if extreme weather conditions threaten the harvest and the fruit needs to come in quickly. Harvesting by machine can also be done at night while the temperatures are cooler which preserves the fruit.
We always hear how high quality wines are associated with hand harvesting. However, more and more producers are switching to either mechanical harvesting or a combination of the two. Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages.
Continuing our discovery of Ontario grape growers, this video introduces us to Gord Mitchell and his daughter, Tanya. I'm very sad to say that as I was starting this article on the Mitchells, I learned that Gord passed away suddenly last week on Sunday November 6th at the age of 66. My deepest condolences to the Mitchell family.
Gord and Tanya Mitchell
The Mitchells own Sprucewood Shores Winery in Harrow, Ontario. This is located in the appellation known as Lake Erie North Shore. I have to admit in that I've haven't visited this region yet but it is on my list of places to visit!
Ontario has four major wine appellations, each with their own unique characteristics:
The Niagara Peninsula
Prince Edward County
Lake Erie North Shore
Pelee Island
Situated in one of the most southern parts of Ontario, vineyards of Lake Erie North Shore have plenty of sunshine. This long growing season allows the fruit to ripen well. The cool lake breezes off the shallow waters of Lake Erie ensure that grapes retain that delicate balance between sweetness and acidity. The region has twelve wineries specializing in Riesling, Cabernet Franc and Merlot.
In the video Gord discusses how the production of wine truly starts in the vineyard. Good wine comes from ripe, quality fruit. Winemaking is an art and it all starts on the vine itself. One can certainly do scientific analysis on the grapes but it doesn't compare to tasting those grapes to really see where they're at. Gord mentions that he and his wife started the vineyard twenty years ago and how Ontario has it's own unique climate, soil and people. He enjoys the rich, lush Cabernet Franc that comes from Ontario. As I watch this video, I can't help but feel so sad at the passing of Gord Mitchell. I believe that Lake Erie South Shore has truly lost a key player in their local wine industry and a strong advocate of the Ontario industry as a whole.
A few days ago someone said to me: "Ontario makes wine? I didn't know that."
Enjoying a glass local flavour in the
Jackson Triggs vineyard.
Go Local everyone!
I'm used to people from other countries being surprised when I tell them that Canada has a flourishing wine industry. The common statement I hear is "Isn't Canada too cold to make wine?" Bless their hearts. They also think that Vancouver is a short car ride from Toronto, failing to realize how vast and diverse this country actually is that we live in. I suddenly became very excited to introduce this person to our wonderful wine industry. I'm sure that they weren't prepared for my long detailed information session. It's a good thing we were in a small confined space. :)
iYellow supports Ontario wine!
I'm very pleased that the LCBO is doing the Go Local campaign. Ontario wines have had a stigma associated with them for a long time, as not being very good. This is so not true! Fortunately this misconception is disappearing from public opinion. We're lucky to have so many wines from around the world available to us but even luckier knowing that we too make world class wine right here in Ontario. Finally there's a much needed push to promote and support our local talent. From grape growers to wine makers. If you go to California, you're encouraged to drink Californian wine. If you go to France, you will no doubt have mostly French wines available to you. Yes, the wine industry here in Canada, specifically in Ontario, is extremely young at just over 30 years. In a very short amount of time, we've risen to create some fabulous examples of what can be done here with local grapes. Our wines can stand proudly on the international stage, many with the medals to prove it!
The talented Andrzej Lipinski!
Ontario has four appellations, or grape growing regions:
Niagara Peninsula
The most well known and established grape growing region in the province. This region is further subdivided into 10 sub-appellations each with a unique characteristic that comes out in the finished wine.
Prince Edward County
Ontario's newest appellation. Cool climate with a foundation of rich limestone.
Lake Erie North Shore
With so much sunshine, it has ideal ripening conditions to make full bodied wine.
Pelee Island
Canada's most southerly grape growing region and enjoys a long growing season.
Winter scene at Legends.
Although mostly known around the world for our icewine, we also produce some delicious still and sparkling wine. Wines from Ontario vary from elegant and complex to fruit forward and fun. Our wines showcase the location where the grapes were grown...our "terroir". That's what wine is supposed to do - represent the land it is from.
Harvest season.
What is terroir? "The combination of location, soil, topography and climate - as having direct influence on both the character and quality of wine grapes" - www.vqaontario.com
Living in Toronto, I'm fortunate to be very close to the Niagara region. What makes this area so wonderful for grape growing is really two-fold: Lake Ontario and the Niagara Escarpment. The lake gathers warmth throughout the summer months. The breezes coming off the lake provide a constant flow of warmer air from the lakeshore to the base of the Escarpment. In the fall and going into winter, this warm air raises the land temperature. The growing season is extended and the vines don't freeze during the cold months of winter. Did you know that the Escarpment was formed during the regions glacial history? This same glacial history is also what gives the region its complex soil compositions.
Thirty Bench.
Grapes at Inniskillin.
Because of this unique growing area, certain grape varieties do very well here: Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Gamay Noir and Cabernet Franc.
These past two weekends I had the chance to partake in the iYellow Wine Club tours into one of the Ontario wine regions - Niagara. I usually go on my own but this was a great way to taste *a lot* of wines in one day. It's harvest time and wine country is at its busiest! This is always the most exciting time for me. I wonder what harvest 2011 will bring? While the world anxiously awaits the delivery of the much talked about Bordeaux 2010 wines, I'm excited that the 2010 Ontario wines are starting to hit the shelves.
Ed from Flat Rock Cellars.
Chateau des Charmes.
It's so important that we support our local producers to continue the growth of our industry. Did you know that Ontario has over 125 wineries? That number will only continue to grow. From larger production facilities to small boutique operations, we have many diverse wineries and wines. I've met many passionate people in all aspects of the wine industry. From wine makers to wine agents. All of them have one thing to say - Ontario wine is only getting better each year!
Daniel Speck from Henry of Pelham.
With the creation of, COVI (Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute) at Brock University, Ontario is recognized around the world for its research and development of cool climate wine making.
When you're in the store searching for a new local Ontario wine to try, or reaching for your favourite, make sure that VQA is listed on the bottle. VQA stands for Vintners Quality Alliance and it ensures that 100% of the fruit in the wine that you're buying is grown in Ontario and that it meets stringent quality standards. It ensures that what's on the label is what's in the bottle. Many bottles also now have a sticker on their neck that says "100% Grown by Grape Growers of Ontario".
I highly recommend making a trip out to one of our wine growing regions and discovering for yourself what makes Ontario wines so great! You won't be disappointed!
The iYellow tour was co-hosted by Taylor Thompson, wine director for the Toronto Ritz Carlton. He offered a great dose of entertainment mixed with information. Learning can be fun! The day's activities, other than the funny commentary between Angela Aiello and Taylor, included a tour and tasting at 3 wineries, lunch, and some good ol' fashioned field trip shenanigans.
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